June 2, 2005 • ISSUE 18 / VOLUME 1

Hawaiian jewelry gaining popularity

Some of the world's finest quality Ming's jewelry, Hawaiian black coral and Ni'ihau shell necklaces can be found at Carats & Karats in Honolulu.

Ni'ihau shell leis, Hawaiian heirloom jewelry, black pearls and black coral are all part of the history of the Pacific Islands. Hawaiian Heirloom jewelry has been a tradition since 1860, influenced by Queen Victoria. And English morning jewelry with black enamel accents is still popular today.

Queen Lydia Paka Lili'uokalani had bracelets made in the Victorian style called palapala, the written form of her beloved Hawaiian language. Each of Lili'u's bracelets carried a singular meaning. Enameled into the gold of one bracelet was the phrase "Hoomanao Mau," or "Lasting Remembrance." A second gold bracelet was engraved with "R. Naiu," meaning "Royalty, the Lofty Ones." Later, Lili'u had an additional bracelet of sterling silver engraved with "Liliuonamoku," which means "Lili'u of the Island."

The English origins and Victorian character of Hawaii jewelry is easily recognized today in its lettering, enameling and engraved designs. Christian Eckart, a manufacturer of fine jewelry, gold and silverware published an advertisement in 1869 declaring "Enameled Jewelry of Every Description made to Order." From his Beretania Street shop, Eckart manufactured jewelry with a variety of designs in the Victorian style.

William Wenner took over the business after the Eckart's death. In 1875,Wenner began fabricating engraved and enameled Englishstyle jewelry with the addition of shell and kukui work. In 1886 and 1887, King Kalakaua commissioned Wenner to refurbish two large and important Hawaiian calabashes. The engravings featured Victorian patterns on the trim of gold work and a Hawaiian warrior, which appeared on the bands of gold surrounding the calabashes. These bands of gold with their designs have evolved into the hand-engraved jewelry we call Hawaiian Heirloom.

Currently, Hawaiian Heirloom Jewelry is produced in sterling silver, various karat gold and platinum. Rings, bracelets and pendants vary in width from 4mm to 28mm wide in either a barrel or flat style.

Ni'ihau Shell Leis are a Pacific Island tradition dating back centuries. Ni'ihau Shell Leis gained popularity during the heyday of tourism during the "Big Boat Days" and the Pan Am Clipper flights to the Hawaiian Islands. There are many styles of these small shell necklaces and various colors.

The shells are found on the north and western facing shores of the Islands of Ni 'ihau and Kauai. It takes years to find enough shells to complete a necklace.Typically, the shells are left intact with little or no preparation except to remove excess grains of sand, and to the clip the ends.

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The materials for stringing in times past were a dark green cotton thread, which is the same used for making fishing nets for throw casting. Today 's lei makers use nylon or silk thread along with epoxy, instead of the traditional beeswax on the thread.

Captain Cook and his crew were the first westerners to document the shell leis of the islands in 1778 and 1778. Between 1790 and 1795, Captain George Vancouver made three visits to the islands, where he collected several Ni'ihau shell necklaces, now on display in British Museums along with those collected by Captain Cook.

These shell leis are a combination of three species of shells – Euplica varians, known as momi; Mitrelloa margarite, called laiki or rice shells; and Leptothyra verruca, known as kahelelani.These species are commonly called "pupu Ni'ihau" or "pupu o Ni'ihau. "Translated, they are "the shells of Ni'ihau."

Since Ming's closed its jewelry store in October 1999, its jewelry has increased in value 200 to 400 percent. Carats & Karats now offers customers a select number of Ming's jewelry, Hawaiian Black Coral and Ni'ihau Shell Lei necklaces.

For more information, call 593-8122, neighbor islands toll free at 877-593-8122, or e-mail flawless@lava.net.